Scales Used for Re-Loading

Team B2B Precision

Scales used for re-loading:

Reloading scales vary greatly in cost, quality, and accuracy. They also vary in method. You have scales that also act as powder dispensers, and those that are developed for lab work.
The most basic reloading scale is the “balance beam” scale. Within each group type of scales, again, cost, quality, and accuracy are the main concern. For this type of scale please see:

“Digital” scales may be the most popular, as they are easy to read and seem to be easier to use. Easier to use, only if you’ve read and understand the instructions, and adhere to them. I am including a link on this type of scale also, and encourage you to read the “related posts” at the bottom of the page.…/ten-commandments-for-elec…/

I will also include this one as it shows an even more sophisticated/expensive option.…/90479-sartorius-gd503-scale…

No doubt some of you have first-hand experience with top quality scales. My intention here is to provide some material for thought for those of you who are still seeking traction on the scale issues. We have used inexpensive digitals, balance beams, Chargemasters, and lastly (because that is what we use now), the Gem Pro 250. The Gem Pro 250 is also inexpensive, but not nearly as inexpensive as some of the name brand reloading scales. I will continue to use the Gem Pro until I can justify buying a Sartorius, which probably won’t happen anytime soon. 

I tested my Gem Pro against my vintage RCBS 10-10 that readily moves ever so slightly from kernel to kernel. I was as anal as I could muster, and quite frankly, I thought the results would be very close, but it wasn’t to be. The RCBS was good, but not as good as the Gem Pro. I compared 5 rounds from each scale shot over the Magneto Speed, looking primarily at ES. 32 for the beam scale, 13 for the Gem Pro. That’s all I needed to see. Others results may go the other way, but mine didn’t, and that’s what I go by. Not a large sample test, but enough for me to see where it was headed.

The brass we use:

Brass seems to come at us from both ends of the spectrum, with very little in the middle. I just recently found this and want to share it:
It’s the first time I’ve seen this, and I can say I will look at their product. 

I am also highly considering buying some brass from Starline. If anyone uses Starline and can compare it to another popular brass, please share. We no doubt have most of the same brass everyone else has that has been saved and is currently gathering dust.

I will start with my experience with Hornady brass, once fired brass of more than one caliber. To say “disappointed” would be an understatement. Weight sorting Hornady brass was an exercise in futility for me. The results were all over the place, and they lost me for good. I never actually tried their new brass, but like I said, I moved on.

Recently I brought 100 rounds of new unfired Winchester brass home to uniform for Joe. It was on sale so he thought he would cut a fat hog and get a few hundred of the dreadful things. The bag had many flat necks in the count, way more than I thought there should be. I ran them all through an expander die/mandrel from PMA Tool, and then checked neck thickness for uniformity. There was none, so I turned the necks and continued to do the primer pockets and flash holes, and then trim them to some form of uniformity. Chamfer, de-bur, and wash. They actually looked good once they were done, but none have been loaded yet for further inspection.

Nosler brass is said to be very uniform in weight. It is . . . but how they accomplish it is a question of its own. I’m sure I know how they do it, as do others who use it and I’ll leave it at that. I do use it with good success for 7mm Rem mag, and I will continue to use it for that caliber.

Lapua brass is extremely popular and of high quality and price. We use it and enjoy the results we get from it. Being the way I am, I can’t load before a trip to the expander and a slight neck turn for “ensured” neck uniformity, and while I’m at it I check everything. Some say “nonsense”, but I want to eliminate even the possibility of variables. No one else has to, but I do it for peace of mind. 

If you are shooting factory ammunition, especially of the inexpensive variety, you can expect to see improvements if you decide to re-load. Brass quality is of great importance to the hand-loader. If you save brass, and then decide to re-load, measure and weigh the brass so you can decide if you want to use it. 

There are of course many other brands of brass. Some are simply made by a parent company and rebranded. If you have tried and compared other brass with good results, please share your findings. 

Team B2B Precision